Monday, September 22, 2008

Beautiful British Columbia*

Hello!

Writing from Victoria, provincial capital. I am on the island for a speedy two days, and wishing it was longer. It's evening, and I've found a cosy brew pub that also has free wireless! Excellent...

My Vancouver stint has passed way too quickly. I did much exploring the local neighbourhoods for the first couple of days, then on Friday Mark and I headed up the Sea-to-Sky highway for Whistler. This journey is spectacular, the broad, calm Howe Sound and islands making way for snow-capped mountains. It was even more spectacular coming home; being on the right-hand side and more immediate to the geographical highs and lows. The evening we arrived in Whistler was clear, with great views to the looming mountains, but the next day was quite cold and rainy. We hiked a little regardless, but by the time we made shelter in a cafe my hands were stiff and clumsy and struggling to count out money for the paper. For some reason, I though the west coast would be a little warmer at this time than it is. My lifelong experience with moderate temperatures (and temperature fluctuations) has set me up for many a fall over here.

Driving home the next day we stopped at Porteau Cove to explore a little. Howe Sound was as still and clear as grey glass and there were great clumps of fog in the mountains. I decided the time was ripe for a little dip, and waded in from the pebbly beach. Despite some energetic strokes, everything started to feel a little numb and I was forced to concede. My body felt like a little heat lamp once I was out, however - the upside of cold water!

We stopped at Lynn Canyon on the way home. The weather had closed in, and the rainforested canyon felt very atmospheric, with mist swirling amongst the huge douglas firs. The canyon is famous for its suspension bridge, which is strung across racing rapids and rocks. My folks have been to Lynn Canyon, and I haven't had confirmation, but I'm pretty sure they crossed over the bridge. After my efforts, clutching at the side of the bridge and mincing step by step ('can't look down!') I'm pretty sure I can now lay claim to being the biggest scaredy-cat of the Buckley clan (Vicki B - did you REALLY  cross over that thing?). I am proud to say I made it over and back - once the raucous Japanese teens who were gleefully jumping up and down had passed, that is. 

I love the green-ness of BC. I remember reading Douglas Copeland in my twenties and feeling he conjured up beautifully this green, rainy place. I feel lucky that while here I've had both sunshine - the preferable travel weather - and rain - the characteristic Vancouver winter weather. Both were present yesterday in Stanley Park - what a fabulous green space. We walked right round the seawall, just under ten k's, watching cruise ships and container ships and all manner of activities occurring. My favourite activity was a cricket match played on a beautifully-manicured oval seemingly straight out of the mother country, but by Indian players who were anything but reserved. There was a bit of controversy when the fielder caught someone out but then stepped back over the boundary - I was excitedly explaining the rules to my Canadian companion, who was kindly persevering, but truth be told looking pretty confused.

No luck on the photo upload - sorry! Aargh. Still trying...(you have to see me smiling/grimacing on that bridge...)

* slogan on BC licence plates. Pretty accurate.




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